Lisbon, a Culinary Experience
A long weekend in Lisbon brings with it the opportunity to truly immerse yourself in the culinary delights of this historical and vibrant city. Plan to have at least three whole days and that's six good meals right there.
Here's the best of what we did.
Evening meals
Peixola – great for a large group or a date night; cavern-like feeling with a key-shaped bar that you sit around. The shrimp tacos are the greatest (served with guac and Mexican salsa, lightly cooked on a soft taco), and the cuttlefish tartar with wasabi mayo and John Dory filets go down a treat. Rum-inspired cocktails will get you going and the Pink Street is just around the corner for kicking on.
A Travessa – a beautiful restaurant serving modern Portuguese food, situated in an old monastery. We sat on a long wooden table in the courtyard outside, lovely setting. You start off with snacks and entrees served degustation style - white anchovy salad, goats cheese and bean salad, clams served up family style, gazpacho soup shot and juicy grilled pork carved up at the table in front of you by the Owners who wait on the tables. And then the mains are a la carte - the scallops with risotto and monk fish stew (curry-like) were both phenomenal.
Pateo 13 – charming outdoor restaurant located on a terrace hidden amongst the cobbled streets of the old town, Alfama. Simple meat and seafood cooked on the grill outside by one chef. Great service (although don't be late for your booking!). My absolute favourite spot in Lisbon, where we celebrated the big 3-0 and were last ones standing at 1am (after having drunk them dry of muscatel, amongst other various liqueurs, don't ask...) - what a night!
Lunch / Arvo snack
Cevicheria - the best ceviche going around, in a cool and fresh atmosphere; get there early and try for a seat at the bar. What to get? Definitely the white fish ceviche with sliced red onion and a sweet potato mousse. And the grilled octopus. And wash it all down with the house white. Just superb.
Mar do Inferno – located on the cliffs overlooking the water in Cascais serving beautiful fresh seafood. Our pick – grilled tiger prawns and lobster, spicy prawns and clams in butter & garlic sauce. To. Die. For.
Bom Jardim - if you're after a rotisserie chicken fix with with never-ending fries and piri piri sauce, go here. Simple, local setting but great service, and great, great chicken.
Time Out Market – a litany of options, anything Portuguese, piri piri chicken, fresh seafood, cheap wine. Busy, but a good way to experience a selection of food if you don't have much time (or can't make up your mind).
Belem – tarts, tarts, tarts. These guys invented them so they know what's going on. Do the sit-down experience in the courtyard out the back, and don’t hold back.
Drinks
Portas do Sol – beautiful views from this spot over looking Alfama out to the river.
Park – funky spot located in a former car park; sunset views over the river with DJ tunes in the background.
Pink Street – a collection of bars to sit at, or sit outside of, adorning a long and (literally) pink street.
Bairro Alto – everyone stands out on the poky, hilly streets across a 5-6 block radius; make sure to get a visit from Snack Man (as we called him) for a late night chorizo roll.
Lux – late night club where you can see the night away until the wee hours (and take your parents too!).
I had little idea of the rich history of Lisbon until our tour guide, José (pronounced Joo-zeh) from Chill Out Free Walking Tours - highly recommend this - gave us a personalised, three hour version via walking tour through the streets of Bairro Alto, Cais do Sodre, Chiado and Alfama. A former global powerhouse, Portugal was a force to be reckoned with in its early history. Lisbon itself is a city with immense character. Flattened by an earthquake and fires in the 1700s - but for the ancient Alfama district which was saved – the city was largely rebuilt, and so today many French and Italian influences can be seen throughout the city's architecture.
My "suggested" itinerary (prepared for the 30th birthday festival weekend) should let you experience not only some of Lisbon's best eats, but also the great variations of neighbourhoods. Saúde!
